Kate chimes in....finally

Kate:   The vacation at the halfway point:  I met a couple from Darbyshire England on the train yesterday who told me that Italy is their favorite place in the world.  I understand why. Right now I am sitting on our bed in our ocean-view villa overlooking the hills behind Positano with the sun streaming through the clouds.  Our door is wide open to our outside decks. Apparently this area is heaven to tourists but does not attract insects.  The landscape is straight up from the sea here on the Amalfi coast and what is not stairs is garden--dozens and dozens of them tucked into the sides of the hills, growing all kinds of vegetables with lemon trees punctuating the scenery everywhere we look.  Kevin and I hiked up (actually climbed up about1100 steps) to a 14th century monastery today, accessible only by the path we followed, to find a "snack bar" where we were served a glass of unsweetened lemon juice with bowls of local green olives, peanuts and potato chips.   (It did not make us any less proud of ourselves to learn that the man who served us commutes on these same stairs every day).
   The graciousness of the Italians to tourists puts us to shame.  We have had people stop to ask us if we need directions or, when asked, be unfailingly helpful and willing to try to figure out what we're asking.  People have guided us onto buses, stayed with us to show us where to get off a train, rescued us when we got on the wrong train (this was apparently a team effort with a few people conferring and the one who spoke English explaining) and advise us about where to go (or what to avoid).    Perhaps one of the best examples comes from Naples.  Kevin and I, with the help of half of Naples, took the bus up to Capio Monte museum, only to be told as we walked up that it had just closed for the day.  It turns out that the person with whom we were speaking was the Director of the museum (very difficult job--no money...which was why the entrance gate was still broken).  She asked us if we wanted a ride to our next destination and then offered to show us a more beautiful part of town.  So, we hopped in the car with her and off we went, communicating as well as we could with her limited English and our "excusi" Italian for a drive to the other side of Naples.  That night at Osteria Donna Theresa, an eponymous restaurant with DT either overlooking her six tables or serving food in the back with her husband and daughter waiting on the tables, we all were amazed at our welcome.  After a delicious, old school Napoli meal, her husband ran out of the restaurant to bring us fresh apricots that we think he harvested from a tree at his house...just so we could taste them.
   So far, every day has brought new sites/sights, great experiences, many new friends (if only for a few minutes) and much pizza.  Who could ask for more?


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