Kevin: In, around and under Naples.

The travelogue shorts that used to come between the features in a double bill at the Strand Theater often started with narrator intoning the cliche " (insert name of country, city, continent) is a study in contrasts. " so begins our posting here with "Naples" in between the parentheses.

I recognize that a day and a half is probably too soon to be making  generalizations but I have been to  few places with such a large and vivid personality than Naples. Since randomness is a sub theme here are some telling details that may help convey the flavor of this city.

1 Pietro, our first cabbie who took his attention off the demolition derby/suicidal death march that is Napolitarian traffic to show us the tattoo of  Vesuvius on his bicep. (Flexing  simulated the eruption and subsequent lava flow. Marj has pictures.

2. The Sunday afternoon "paggiata"  a gathering of all levels of Napoli society on the promenade of the bay.  Essentially, all levels of the social strata congregate in front of the spectacular harbor vista to eat trashy Italian treats, totter on high heels, smoke, flirt, make out, and drive all manner of odd rented vehicles --bicycles built for four, go- carts, and radio controlled cars for infants.

3.A day walking  through Spaccanapoli, the old town...tiny, narrow, cobbled streets flanked with  four and five story stucco buildings with balconies overflowing with plants, flowers, and laundry. In between the daily lives of residents are the spectacular array of baroque, medieval and Greek churches and ruins. Views into the kitchens of folks on the ground floors.  A street devoted to crèche scene supplies. Imagine the opportunity to add Barak Obama  and Kate and Will Windsor to your nativity scene!

4. A couple of hours 35 kms under the city, crawling through "Napoli soutterranea"
the ancient caverns that have served as the source of building materials , water system, and air raid shelters during WWII. Happy to make the cut when those to fat to squeeze through the narrowest passages had to stay behind.  Celebrated by ordering full pizzas for all for lunch.

4. A evening stroll up the hills to where the rich live in mansions hanging off the sides of hills overlooking the teeming steamy, moldy city below. Coming across a  breathtaking scenic vista of the city , the bay and the shore with the Sorrento coast glittering behind both. Noticing that I was sharing the vista with a super sized memorial to Mother Teresa...a bigger than live sized  bust. Too lost in the most beautiful city and sea panorama to mind sharing it with that lying bitch.